Changes in consumer tastes, crazy raw material prices and, perhaps most importantly, government regulations, are rapidly changing the supply chain for many nonwoven-based products. Companies are lessening their reliance on traditional plastic-based fibers and looking toward more bio-based plastics and natural-based fibers.

While there will never be a total replacement for traditional plastics in many applications—either in terms of tonnage or performance—these changes are certainly changing the look of the disposable hygiene and wipes markets globally with more brands focusing on natural-based ingredient stories.

Manufacturers of both natural and synthetic fibers are responding to these changes with the development of new products, improved production processes and partnering with bio-centric companies to find ways to create a greener profile throughout their businesses.

“Sustainability is very important as recycled/re-engineered fiber is what we do. There is also more talk about a circular economy and an increased need for sustainable programs and products in the marketplace,” says Bryan Tickle, key accounts manager for Leigh Fibers. “This has caused us to think about different ways we can utilize all our capabilities at Leigh to create new products to fit a greener world. We have many more customers inquiring about taking their waste, creating a fiber product from that waste, and getting that fiber back to them in either bale or pad form to utilize in their end product. Circular Programs.”

Perhaps the biggest influence to nonwovens and nonwoven product design is the European Union’s Single Use Plastics Directive, which became effective in July 2021. This legislation, as well as impending similar measures in the U.S., Canada and other countries, has put the pressure on makers of wipes and feminine hygiene products, which are on the first list of products subject to regulations and labeling requirements. The response has been widespread with some companies already vowing to eliminate plastics from their products.

For Lenzing and many suppliers to the nonwovens industry, the number one challenge has been the definition of plastics. “There are so many different perspectives you can look at—raw material origin perspective, renewable raw material perspective, end of life perspective,” says Tom Carlyle, nonwovens commercial manager, Americas. “Additionally, it’s hard to define what exactly is a single-use plastic as they really dig in and look at the supply chain complexity.”

While the company’s wood-based biodegradable VEOCEL fibers, do not fall under the scope of the EU Single Use Plastics Directive and are not considered plastics, the company continues to focus on becoming more sustainable both through recent investment projects in Brazil and Thailand (€1.2billion) as well as investment at its existing Asian sites in China and Indonesia amounting to €200 million, where a key focus is group-wide climate neutrality. In 2019, Lenzing became the first fiber manufacturer to set a target to reduce its carbon emissions by 50% by 2030 and to be net-zero by 2050. This carbon reduction target has been verified and approved by the Science Based Targets Initiative.

Additionally, a partnership with Swedish pulp producer Södra marks a further milestone in Lenzing’s efforts to achieve its climate and sustainability goals. These two global market leaders, which have been proactively promoting the circular economy in the fashion industry for many years, are joining forces to give the issue a further boost and to make a decisive contribution to resolving the global textile waste problem. An expansion of capacities for pulp recovery from waste textiles is also planned. The goal is to be able to recycle 25,000 tons of used textiles per year by 2025.

Sustainability is not only a very important element of strategy at Lenzing, but also a guiding principle for innovation and product development. Lenzing continued to expand its product offering for the textile and nonwovens sectors in 2021. The third quarter saw the presentation of the first TENCEL lyocell fibers made from wood- and orange-based fiber pulp. The upcycling of orange peels as part of the Tencel Limited Edition initiative represents a further successful step by Lenzing to develop new closed loop solutions together with partners along the value chain. The introduction of the first carbon-neutral fibers on the global nonwovens market under the VEOCEL brand comprises a further product innovation from the reporting year that exemplifies Lenzing’s ambitious path in climate protection.

“Responsible manufacturing has come a long way but there are always bad actors out there. The trick is we have to focus on what is best for human health long term,” says Carlyle, adding both plant- and petroleum-based fibers should continue to have a role in the nonwovens industry.

“From Lenzing’s point of view, plastic is a necessary raw material. It is needed but we need to learn how to dispose it responsibly,” he adds. “We tend to look at durable products differently than you do disposable products but we have to learn how to consider the impact of all these products.”

Noting that Lenzing’s growth strategy centers around Lyocell because it is a more sustainable fiber and process, Carlyle points to the company’s recent investment in Thailand, which is capable of making 100,000 tons of lyocell fibers to meet demand for this product.

Lenzing will continue to expand its production capacity for lyocell fibers in line with its sCore TEN strategy, which aims to generate 75% of its fiber revenue from eco-responsible specialty fibers such as TENCEL, Lenzing Ecovero and VEOCEL fibers by 2024. The Thailand site offers space for several additional production lines. The investment in the first phase already includes general infrastructure that would benefit future expansion. However, Lenzing will continue to look for opportunities to expand lyocell production in other parts of the world too. 

According to Rahul Bansal, global business development head, nonwovens, at Birla Cellulose, cost and performance have been replaced by a combination of sustainability, performance and cost as key drivers for fiber selection. “Now, the raw material selection primarily depends on being sustainable in nature,” he says. “When I say sustainable, it means the raw material sourcing, manufacturing, product and its end of life phase don’t harm or degrade the environment, and this is followed by the most important criteria of suitability of raw material for present nonwoven technologies. “

Cotton Continues

The name cotton stands for itself—consumers know and love the look and feel of cotton, however some synthetic fibers have done such a good job of replicating this look and feel, some consumers have thought its role in disposables was larger than reality. This has changed in recent years thanks to consumer educations efforts, led by Cotton Incorporated, greater consumer awareness in general and legislation efforts that have required improvements in labeling. 

Not only does cotton offer sustainability benefits, it is also safe and healthy for skin and is naturally hypoallergenic. This is particularly important for people with sensitive skin and products designed to be used in areas of the body where skin tends to be more sensitive like baby diapers, feminine hygiene and adult care products.

On the consumer side, the use of cotton in wipes has been growing in recent years thanks to line improvements and investments of nonwovens producers serving this market. Cotton was initially considered only for the absorbent component of a baby wipe, but hydrophobic products, like Wildwood Cotton Technologies’ TruCotton, can now be used as a replacement for polyester or polypropylene in some applications.

Meanwhile, in hygiene, the interest in cotton-containing topsheets that touch the user’s skin has exploded. These developments were first seen in feminine hygiene applications but are now expanding into diaper products.

At last year’s Hygienix consumer products conference, Kudos, a diaper startup, received an innovation award for its diapers featuring 100% breathable cotton touching baby’s skin. Not only does this product have the ability to put out less carbon emissions than any other disposable diaper company, it is also the number one doctor-recommended material for those with rash or eczema and Kudos has the cotton natural seal for being lined with 100% cotton instead of plastic. Kudos diapers have also been certified to the strictest safety standard, OEKO-TEX Standard 100. 

“We are here today because parents care about what’s in their baby’s diapers,” says founder and CEO Amrita Saigal. “They also care about the environmental impact of the products they buy.

“Studies indicate that diapers in landfills take up to 500 years to degrade, creating methane and other toxic gasses, using volatile chemicals that also end up in the ecosystem. 200,000 trees are lost each year to make disposable diapers for babies in the U.S. alone. If all diapers were made the Kudos way, 500 million pounds of plastic would be replaced with clean, unbleached, natural cotton. 2 billion pounds of fossil-fuel derived diaper materials would be sourced from renewable materials each year.”

In addition to softness and skin feel, the use of cotton is growing as government mandates are limiting the use of plastic feedstocks in single use goods, requiring manufacturers to consider new materials in products like disposable wipes and hygiene products.

As ingredient transparency is becoming more important, particularly with female consumers, the use of cotton has become more prominent in hygiene areas. Led by female owned hygiene companies, this trend is carrying over into the bigger brands like Procter & Gamble’s Always Pure brand which contains a percentage of cotton ingredient.

Cotton growers are also working to increase yields and improve the sustainability profile of the fibers. During the past 20 years, cotton growers have worked to do more with less. They have increased yields without increasing water use and globally cotton uses just 3% of all water used in agriculture.

Cotton is grown in approximately 80 countries and uses only 0.6% of the world’s agricultural lands. Its natural drought tolerance, minimal irrigation needs and ability to thrive in arid climates makes it one of the most versatile crops on the planet, producing both fiber and food (cotton seeds and cotton seed oil).

During the next 10 years, cotton growers are aiming to increase soil carbon and land efficiency and reduce soil loss, water use and energy use, and already cotton is available in a number of forms—natural cleaned cotton is soft, hydrophobic and hypoallergenic; purified cotton; linters and combers, shot cut cotton; and cotton flock.

Hemp Hits

Hemp has seemingly become the hot new fiber in feminine care with several companies either launching or about to launch products containing the ancient materials. While these fibers have been overlooked by the industry historically because they were inconsistent and difficult to process, recent developments have perfected processes that clean, purify and individualize these fibers to meet the standards of nonwovens and disposable products.

“The shift away from plastic is being driven by consumers, brands, and legislators and is affecting all industries, not just nonwovens. Natural fibres currently comprise a small segment of the nonwovens industry, but demand is increasing exponentially. BFT has shown that our all-natural fibres are suitable for nonwoven applications ranging from single-use wipes and hygiene through to durable nonwovens used in textiles, green building and agricultural applications,” says Lars Lauritsen, chief commercial officer, BAST Fibretech.

In addition to working on developing processes that better serve the nonwovens industry, BFT is also focusing on expansion. Earlier this year, the company purchased Georgia-Pacific’s Lumberton Cellulose LLC in a move that will allow the company to expand capacity to over 30,000 tons per year, making BFT Lumberton one of the largest fully integrated natural fiber processing parks in North America.

“As changes in consumer preferences and single-use plastics legislation drive demand for alternatives to synthetic fibers, consumer brand companies are seeking to manufacture products using fiber with minimal ecological impacts,” says CEO Jim Posa. “The BFT Lumberton plant will produce all-natural, clean, soft, compostable fibers that are capable of displacing synthetics fibers in many nonwoven and textile applications and will also bring valuable cleantech sector jobs to the local community.”

Recent feminine hygiene launches containing hemp include Rif care (Regenerative International Female, Inc.). The brand’s founder Val Emanuel believes hemp is a great alternative to other plant-based options on the market. “The feminine care industry was missing an alternative solution that was as good as cotton,” she says. “There were other products using bamboo, banana and even someone who came out with pineapple fibers, but at the end of the day we needed something that had a naturally better fiber composition, plus hemp is antimicrobial.”

Emanuel claims Rif care pads can biodegrade 100% in less than a year, in a landfill or in an industrial compost. The pads’ wrappers are also made of a sugar-based plastic that protects the pads without having an additional plastic bag surrounding them in the box.

In terms of sustainability, hemp has about a quarter of the carbon footprint as cotton, and as far as comfort, many believe it’s on par with cotton. “Cotton does have a place in specific nonwoven applications, and it blends well with BFT’s sustainable fibers. However, bast fibres grow in a wider climactic zone than cotton. This allows for agriculture production that is not reliant on irrigation,” says Jason Finnis, chief innovation officer. “Additionally, bast fibers yield far more biomass per hectare than cotton making them much more efficient at sequestering carbon. According to the European Union, carbon sequestration by hemp is nearly double that of most forests.”

Outside of disposables, hemp-based nonwovens are being used in durable applications like insulation. In April,  IND HEMP and Hempitecture announced the coordinated supply chain partnership for the production and manufacture of natural hemp fibers for Hempitecture’s nonwoven Hempwool insulation to be grown, processed and manufactured in the western U.S. IND HEMP is coordinating genetics, agronomy and contracting production acres of industrial hemp fiber in Montana, Oregon, Washington and now Idaho. The company is the ‘supply’ in supply chain performing ‘first touch’ decortication processing – the initial separation of raw materials direct from the farm to produce a consistent supply of raw hemp bast fiber at scale. Hempitecture has market proven their Hempwool insulation product, branded as ‘the most sustainable, high performing insulation material on the planet’ for the past few years and is currently constructing a factory to make airlaid insulation products in Jerome, ID.

“Hempitecture’s partnership with IND HEMP represents more than just a critical supply chain solution. It represents the restoration of American manufacturing, the empowerment of rural economies and forward thinking innovation in sustainable materials. We look forward to innovating the building products of the future with IND HEMP’s processed hemp fiber,” shares Hempitecture co-founder and CEO Mattie Mead.

Plastics Persist

Suppliers to the nonwovens industry agree. There will always be a place for plastics in nonwovens. Not only does it offer attractive prices (normally) and performance, its supply is unmatched. There are simply not enough fiber materials available to replace plastic-based fibers, both in nonwovens and other industries.

Therefore, many people think that the solution is not to replace plastics but to focus on technology to make them more sustainable.

In April, Indorama announced its Hygiene Fibers Group had strengthened its sustainability portfolio with the launch of the Deja Carbon Neutral polypropylene fiber range and significant advancements in its Biotransformative Polypropylene Fibers and Nonwovens Technology.

Deja Carbon Neutral polypropylene fibers have been developed in response to customer demand for solutions to meet sustainability targets and objectives. Having undertaken a fully accredited Life Cycle Assessment on their processes and materials, IVL Hygiene Group subsidiary FiberVisions in Covington, GA, now offers this select polypropylene staple fiber range, which balances greenhouse gas emissions with verified carbon offset projects in partnership with Strive, a leading provider of global climate solutions.

The company has also focused on advancements in dual solution Biotransformation (PP), designed to be recyclable and time-set biodegradable. A shelf stable polypropylene and stored, treated fibers and nonwovens can be recycled as normal. If diverted into the environment, it is scientifically designed to break down in natural conditions and to biotransform, leaving behind no toxins or microplastics.

Meanwhile, Indorama Company, Wellman International has been pioneering recycling technology for more than 50 years. Recently commissioned technologies at its site in Mullagh, Ireland, allow PET to be recycled without compromising on quality. Sister bands Auriga, IVL Asia, and Trevira also offer a strong recycled PET (rPET) fiber portfolio to the hygiene industry. IVL’s Fibers business segment’s rPET portfolio is represented by the Deja brand platform, differentiated by a performance-led suite of sustainable solutions that help customers to achieve sustainability targets while also responding to end-consumers’ demand for transparency and environmental responsibility.

Recycling technology is nothing new to USFibers. The company has been recycling polyester since it started operations in 1994. “Recycling is what we know,” says Teddy Oh, vice president, USFibers. We have been making polyester staple out of recycled fibers since 1992. It is our bread and butter. This is what we do.”

What has changed, however, is in the past recycling efforts were driven by economics, where now the focus is on offering a truly sustainable product, Oh adds.

“This  has led us to focusing on diversifying our product offerings to be a ‘one stop shop’ for our customers being champion of recycling and reinvesting in our business with a focus on cost control to help offset rising raw material prices as we understand the difficulty this presents to our customer base,” he says.

The focus on biodegradability led Fiberpartner, in association with U.S. partner Primaloft, to commercialize a commercial biodegradable solution using Primaloft Bio technology, which creates fibers that biodegrade by hydrodegradation or can be chemically recycled. These fibers are based on core/sheath in 100% PET and available in 2 and 4 den–cut lengths from 32 mm to 105 mm.

After biodegrading in a hydrodegradation process, Primaloft Bio eventually leaves no trace of microplastic behind. However, these fibers will not biodegrade during use. The fibers, which are available in several varieties, are shipped in normal bales with a regular shelf life with no need for special care or treatment during storage and transportation.

According to Thomas Wittrup, CEO, Fiberpartner, Primaloft is a great solution for nonwovens producers and converters who want a more sustainable option without sacrificing performance or having to modify existing equipment. “The nice thing about this technology is it can be used in the lines as they are,” he says. “It does not require modification or additional investment.”

Earlier this year, machinery supplier Andritz  processed this biodegradable PET 1,4 den spunlace nonwoven fiber on its carded and Jetlace hydroentanglement process at its pilot line in Montbonnot, France. Andritz produced nonwoven spunlace fabrics from 35 to 50 gsm, with 100% PET PrimaLoft Bio fiber. As a result, the fibers are confirmed processing by the Andritz spunlace systems as other standard PET fibers.

According to Wittrup, this solution is a good one for the nonwovens industry as it looks offer more sustainable solutions, but work continues to be done. “It is something that works well today but there will be new solutions in the future,” he says. “There has to be.”